If the sound of another themed speakeasy is enough to induce a 360-degree eye-roll from you, you're not alone. There's been plenty of them in Shanghai, hidden behind vintage coke machines, bookshelves and even barber shops, but newly opened Oji is different.
A cocktail bar within a bar – Zhang Court's El Ocho to be precise – Oji is run by Japanese mixologist Naoji Oji, formerly of Mardi Gras, alongside Taiwanese manager Michael (above left). Consisting of just a long, thick bar with seating for 17 plus one table, the place feels romantic, unfussy and utterly transportive. It's a den of quality with touches like hot steamed towels when you sit down, great quality ice and beautiful glassware like this:
Despite his few years, Naoji's craft has gained him a loyal following over the years, and the bar's current clientele consists of punters who have followed him here to this dark, secret hideout. It's pretty obvious why. Naoji's drinks are special, and made by the book. Quite literally, here they are:
Unfortunately they're mostly in Japanese, so unless your Kanji is on point you'll just have to enjoy them for the pictures.
At time of writing there are no formal menus (our bill came to RMB355 for four drinks, or RMB88 each), but ask for a drink or specify a base spirit, and the white tuxedo-clad Naoji will make it off the cuff. It's often said that cocktails with the fewest ingredients are the hardest to perfect, and Naoji's Old Fashioned was one of the closest we've had to perfection in a long time – smooth, strong and exquisitely balanced. We finished it in under five minutes.
'A perfect martini calls for a frozen glass,' begins Naoji's Perfect Martini book, and sure enough, out from the freezer come two, long-stemmed glasses for our classic Vespers – which are afforded the same balance he applies to his Old Fashioneds.
It's worth noting at this point that unlike many other quality craft cocktail spots around Shanghai, Naoji isn't using extra special or premium spirits to make his excellent drinks, you'll find his bar stocked with Bacardi, Chivas Regal and Yamazaki, and our two excellent Vespers made with humble Red Label Smirnoff Vodka, no less.
Aside from the classics, Naoji's skillful hands are also capable of making creative cocktails too, like this riff on a Cosmopolitan, which he garnishes with silver dragées. Worth feeling like a noughties Sex and the City wannabe for.
We also couldn't fault him on his long drinks. His version of an Italian Mojito, made with Campari was delicious. Like, inexplicably so. What does Naoji do that makes his drinks taste so good? It must be in the hands.
And now for the caveat. You knew there'd be one, didn't you? The first two drinks took fucking forever. Not the making of them, but rather for Naoji to get round to making them since the bar was fully occupied, and with a particularly needy group at the main table.
But are these drinks worth waiting for? Yes. We'd be willing to wait again, but would recommend against Oji if you're in any kind of hurry. Alternatively, make your first order a simple pour like whisky on the rocks and order a second drink soon after so at least you have something to sip on while you wait.
Now how to find it. Walking into the building, you'll see a sign for Oji in the staircase, but to actually get in, go straight into El Ocho on the third floor, and look for a nondescript door with a framed bar spoon on it and a wall-mounted vintage telephone next to it. Dial '0' and they'll let you in.
Price: Drinks approximately RMB88 each
Who's going: Cocktail connoisseurs both local and expat
Good for: hiding, dates, cocktails, whisky
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